August 21, 2011
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In another operation pushing darkness—the second in as many nights—Grand Teton National Park rangers rescued a 25-year-old female who fell about 25 feet while climbing a popular route in Death Canyon called The Snaz. On Saturday, August 20, Lauren McLean from Lake Oswego, Oregon sustained significant injuries when she fell, because her belay system failed, and landed feet first on a ledge at the base of the last pitch.
A member of McLean’s climbing party notified Teton Interagency Dispatch Center of the incident at 4:50 p.m. via cell phone. Park rescue personnel immediately summoned a Teton Interagency contract helicopter to perform a reconnaissance flight to assess the situation. Due to McLean’s location, rangers devised two separate plans for McLean’s rescue; one option included spending the night with her on the cliff and the other option involved an evacuation before dark.
Two rangers were inserted via short-haul just above McLean’s location a little before 8 p.m. One ranger rappelled down to McLean and determined that it would be possible to fly her off the ledge that night. The ranger then stabilized McLean’s injuries and provided emergency medical care before preparing her for a short-haul flight in an aerial evacuation suit. McLean was flown from The Snaz to the historic White Grass Dude Ranch that sits just east of Death Canyon. A park ambulance met the helicopter in a meadow near the ranch buildings and transported McLean to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson for further treatment. McLean was subsequently flown to the University of Utah Medical Center in Salt Lake City, Utah for additional medical care.
McLean’s two climbing partners decided to hike out of Death Canyon on Saturday night. One ranger spent the night on a ledge of the cliff face in order to assist in flying off rescue equipment and other gear early Sunday morning.
The Snaz is one of the most popular climbs in Death Canyon, and is usually completed in nine pitches. It is rated a 5.9 on the Yosemite Decimal System, a set of numeric ratings describing the difficulty of climbs.
Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts
Climber Rescued from N. Ridge of Grand Teton
Rangers used short-haul to rescue stranded climber from Grand Stand area on the 13,770 foot Grand Teton.
Fading daylight & North Face of Grand Teton from
Teton Interagency helicopter cockpit.
Teton Interagency helicopter cockpit.
August 20, 2011
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Just before dark on Friday August 19, Grand Teton National Park rangers rescued a 28-year-old climber after he became stranded near the top of the Grand Stand below the North Face of the Grand Teton. Jesse Selwyn of Florence, Montana and his climbing partner intended to climb the Black Ice Couloir on the northwest side of the Grand. Selwyn and his companion could not find the entrance to the Black Ice Couloir and got off route. They ended up on the Grand Stand instead.
At 4:55 p.m., the Teton Interagency Dispatch Center received notification from the Teton County Sheriff’s office that an individual had activated a SPOT rescue locator somewhere on the Grand Teton. Rangers requested a Teton Interagency helicopter to conduct a reconnaissance flight to assess the situation. A ranger inside the helicopter used a white board with the words “OK?” written on it to ask the climbers if they were alright. The climbers gave a thumbs down sign, so rangers responded by writing the words “rescue?” and the climbers gave a thumbs up, indicating they were in trouble and needed help.
Based on the climbers’ location, rangers flew inside the helicopter to a landing zone on the west side of Teewinot Mountain. From there, one ranger was inserted via short-haul to Selwyn’s location just after 8 p.m. Once on scene, the ranger prepared Selwyn for a short-haul evacuation off the mountain to Lupine Meadows rescue cache on the valley floor. Selwyn was uninjured and released soon after landing. Short-haul is a rescue technique where an individual is suspended below the helicopter on a 100 to 200 foot rope. This method allows a rescuer more direct and expedient access to an injured or stranded party; it is often used in the Tetons where conditions make it difficult to land a helicopter in high-elevation, steep and rocky terrain. Patients are typically flown out via short-haul below the ship with a ranger attending to them, as was the case for this rescue.
After rescuing Selwyn, the helicopter made one last flight to retrieve the other rangers from the landing zone on Teewinot. The ship landed back at Lupine Meadows at 8:47 p.m., just two minutes before it was required to stop flying due to darkness. This time is called the “pumpkin hour,” and is 30 minutes after official sunset.
By the time rangers reached Selwyn, his climbing partner had begun to backtrack the route in hopes of reaching the lower saddle before it got too dark to continue. After realizing it was too dark to safely backtrack across the Valhalla Traverse, Selwyn’s partner decided to spend the night on the mountain and begin his retreat again at first light on Saturday. The climbing partner reached the Lower Saddle of the Grand Teton just before 8:30 a.m. on August 20.
This is the second time in a week that a stranded party has initiated a SPOT locater device in the area. The first came from a pilot who crashed his ultralight aircraft near Fox Creek Pass just outside of Grand Teton National Park in the Caribou-Targhee National Forest. While these rescue devices can be valuable tools when used appropriately, rangers remind backcountry users that technical high-mountain rescue carries certain inherent risks for the rescuers and these devices should only be used in a true emergency.
Rangers remind backcountry users that they should be in good physical condition and stick to hikes and routes that are within their ability and comfort levels. Appropriate equipment and the knowledge of how to use it are essential for a safe trip. Hikers and climbers are encouraged to stop in a visitor center or ranger station on the day of travel to obtain the most current trail, route and snow conditions.
Rangers Rescue Climber from Guides' Wall
short-haul evacuation from Guides' Wall.
Guides' Wall: a popular Teton rock climbing route.
June 26, 2011
11-50Grand Teton National Park rangers short-hauled a 47-year-old injured climber off of Guides' Wall in Cascade Canyon on Saturday, June 25. Dagmar Rapp of Farmington, Connecticut was on a guided trip with Exum Mountain Guides when she fell about 15 feet on the Flake pitch, the fifth pitch of six on the route.
The Exum guide notified Teton Interagency Dispatch Center of the injured climber at 2:40 p.m. Battling gusty winds and maneuvering cautiously with minimal clearance from the rock face, a Teton Interagency contract helicopter inserted one ranger at Rapp’s location; the ranger then prepared Rapp for a short-haul extrication using an aerial evacuation suit, a soft harness-like body suit. Three other rangers, who were in the vicinity, hiked to the base of Guides' Wall and staged there, in case winds prevented a short-haul operation from being possible.
Rapp, with a ranger attending, reached the valley floor just after
5 p.m. A park ambulance then transported her toSt. John’s Medical Center Jackson
5 p.m. A park ambulance then transported her to
Stranded Climber Rescued from Teewinot
Aerial view of Teewinot Mountain
October 21, 2010
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Grand Teton National Park rangers rescued a stranded climber from the east face of Teewinot Mountain on Wednesday evening, October 20 with the assistance of a Teton Interagency contract helicopter. Eric Steinmann, age 26, of Wilson, Wyoming called a friend via cell phone to report that he was in a location on the mountain from which he could not continue climbing without risk of falling. The friend then contacted Teton Interagency Dispatch Center at 3:55 p.m. to report Steinmann’s predicament, and rangers launched a rescue mission to reach Steinmann and bring him to safety. Due to the late hour of the day, rangers ultimately used a helicopter-assisted evacuation.
During a reconnaissance flight at 4:50 p.m., Steinmann was located on a steep pinnacle, high on the east face of Teewinot. With little remaining daylight and predicted cold overnight temperatures, a decision was made to insert one ranger via the short-haul technique and place Steinmann in an aerial evacuation suit for a short-haul extraction from the peak. The ranger reached the stranded Steinmann at 5:55 p.m. and prepared him for a flight to the Lupine Meadows rescue cache. The rescue concluded at 6:20 p.m.—just 40 minutes before “pumpkin hour,” the designated time beyond which the ship cannot fly according to FAA regulations.
Steinmann told rangers that he intended to climb the 4th class route up the east face of Teewinot Mountain. Being somewhat new to mountaineering, Steinmann had climbed multiple peaks in the park this summer with various partners; however, this was his first solo climb in the Teton Range. When Steinmann realized that he could no longer continue to climb without great risk of falling, he made the prudent decision to call for help.
Although mountain rescue operations have become relatively routine for Grand Teton National Park rangers, these operations demand a high level of preparation, technical skill and expertise—as well as focused safety deliberations—before a mission is executed. Many variables can delay or impede a rescue operation and climbers should never take for granted that a rescue is possible. Consequently, climbers should be prepared to initiate a self rescue as a first option.
Park rangers remind climbers to become familiar with the intended route and carry a route description along during their climb. Also, mountaineers should never climb into a position from which they cannot safely retreat: in other words, get “cliffed out.” Furthermore, rangers recommend that climbers go with a partner or partners as an added measure of safety.
Rangers also stress that backcountry users should carry extra clothing, food and water in the event of an unexpected night out in the Tetons. Ultimately, the responsibility for a mountaineer’s safety rests with himself/herself and their climbing partners, plus their experience and preparation.
Climber Evacuated from Valhalla Traverse
Icy slope where Smith fell while crossing the Valhalla Traverse
August 26, 2010
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Grand Teton National Park rangers rescued an injured climber from the Valhalla Traverse on the Grand Teton Thursday afternoon, August 26, after receiving a call for help at 11:30 a.m. alerting them of a climber who had fallen and sustained injuries. Michelle Smith, 29, of Jackson, Wyoming was traversing across snow and ice when she slipped and fell 30 feet.
Smith and her climbing partner were planning to do a one-day trip up the Enclosure Couloir (12,000 feet) on the northwest side of the Grand Teton. Both climbers were using ropes while crossing the Valhalla Traverse, and both have extensive climbing experience in the Teton Range.
Three rangers were flown from Lupine Meadows to the Lower Saddle at 12:40 p.m. to meet up with two other rangers who were already on patrol at the Lower Saddle. From there, two of the rangers were short-hauled below the helicopter and delivered in close proximity to the accident site. One ranger hiked to Smith and reached her at about 2:30 p.m. The ranger provided emergency medical care to Smith before preparing her for aerial evacuation.
Smith was flown to the Lower Saddle via short-haul, then placed inside the helicopter for the flight down to Lupine Meadows where a park ambulance was waiting to transport her to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson.
Rangers remind hikers and climbers that one-third of all backcountry injuries result from slips on snow and ice.
Backcountry users are advised to stop in or call a visitor center or ranger station on the day of travel to obtain the most current trail, route and snow conditions. Climbers should also note that most accidents occur on the descent at the end of the day.
Rangers Recover Body of University Student in Garnet Canyon
Middle Teton as seen from Garnet Canyon, looking west
July 23, 2010
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Grand Teton National Park rangers are investigating the death of a young University of Michigan student, who apparently fell 80 feet after summiting the 12,804-foot Middle Teton on Tuesday evening, July 20. Jillian Drow, age 21, of Chelsea, Michigan separated from her climbing partner as they descended the mountain. When Drow failed to return to a backcountry camp in Garnet Canyon, the group’s leader began to search for her. He discovered Drow, who was unresponsive and lifeless, at approximately 9 p.m.
Teton Interagency Dispatch Center received a cell phone call from the University of Michigan group leader at 7:30 on Tuesday evening. He reported that a member of their party—a group of eight—was missing, and they were searching for her whereabouts. A second cell phone call was received at 9:03 p.m. reporting that Drow had been found, but not alive.
Because of the late hour and waning light, a helicopter flight was not possible. Therefore, four park rangers were dispatched to hike up to the Garnet Canyon campsite to begin a recovery operation; they arrived at 1:30 a.m. on Wednesday, July 21. Six of the University of Michigan students hiked out of the canyon to the valley floor in the early hours of Wednesday morning, while park rangers remained with Drow and the group leader to make preparations for an aerial evacuation with daylight on Wednesday morning.
A Teton Interagency helicopter flew Drow and the group leader out at 9:30 a.m. on Wednesday, just a few hours before a severe lightning storm enveloped the Teton Range. The lightning storm injured 17 climbers on the 13,770-foot Grand Teton and a full-scale rescue mission was launched by park rangers to rescue and extricate the injured climbers in the aftermath of the Drow evacuation and severe storm event.
Park rangers will continue their investigation to circumstances surrounding Drow’s death. No further details are available at this time.
Hiker Falls to his Death on Teewinot
Aerial view of Teewinot MountainSeptember 23, 2009
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Grand Teton National Park rangers used the Teton interagency contract helicopter to locate and retrieve the body of a backcountry hiker who apparently fell to his death on Teewinot Mountain about
1 p.m. on Tuesday, September 22. Eliot Kalmbach, age 24, from Pennsylvania and his partner Jon Winiasz, age 23, of Vermilion, Ohio were traversing a steep slope on Teewinot when Kalmbach fell and tumbled approximately 300 feet and sustained fatal injuries. Because the two men only intended to hike and scramble, neither was wearing a helmet or carrying climbing gear.
Kalmbach and Winiasz arrived in Grand Teton a few days before the accident. After consulting with park rangers about various backcountry hiking and climbing possibilities, they hiked to Delta Lake on Sunday, September 20, and climbed the Southwest Couloir on Middle Teton on Monday. On Tuesday morning, they parked at the Lupine Meadows trailhead and hiked up a portion of the Apex Trail to reach and explore the east flank of Teewinot. During their excursion, they got off course and onto a more vertical slope than they intended, and Kalmbach accidentally fell while trying to scramble across technical terrain. After Kalmbach came to rest, Winiasz scrambled down to him and realized that his friend was unconscious, not breathing and without a pulse. Winiasz used Kalmbach’s cell phone to call 911 and the emergency call was transferred to Teton Interagency Dispatch Center at 1:28 p.m.
Park rangers summoned the contract helicopter that was already working in the vicinity, and used the ship to pinpoint the hikers’ location from the air. Rangers determined that no suitable landing spot was available from which they could stage a mountain-based rescue operation, so they conducted a short-haul mission from the park’s rescue cache at Lupine Meadows on the valley floor.
One ranger with emergency gear was inserted via short-haul into the accident site at 3:30 p.m. Upon arriving, he confirmed that Kalmbach was deceased. A second ranger was inserted with a rescue litter, and the two placed Winiasz into an evacuation suit for a short-haul flight to the Lupine Meadows rescue cache. The helicopter made a second flight at 4:30 p.m. to evacuate Kalmbach. Teton County Coroner Bob Campbell then met the rangers at Lupine Meadows to transport Kalmbach by vehicle to Jackson, Wyoming.
Grand Teton National Park rangers used the Teton interagency contract helicopter to locate and retrieve the body of a backcountry hiker who apparently fell to his death on Teewinot Mountain about
1 p.m. on Tuesday, September 22. Eliot Kalmbach, age 24, from Pennsylvania and his partner Jon Winiasz, age 23, of Vermilion, Ohio were traversing a steep slope on Teewinot when Kalmbach fell and tumbled approximately 300 feet and sustained fatal injuries. Because the two men only intended to hike and scramble, neither was wearing a helmet or carrying climbing gear.
Kalmbach and Winiasz arrived in Grand Teton a few days before the accident. After consulting with park rangers about various backcountry hiking and climbing possibilities, they hiked to Delta Lake on Sunday, September 20, and climbed the Southwest Couloir on Middle Teton on Monday. On Tuesday morning, they parked at the Lupine Meadows trailhead and hiked up a portion of the Apex Trail to reach and explore the east flank of Teewinot. During their excursion, they got off course and onto a more vertical slope than they intended, and Kalmbach accidentally fell while trying to scramble across technical terrain. After Kalmbach came to rest, Winiasz scrambled down to him and realized that his friend was unconscious, not breathing and without a pulse. Winiasz used Kalmbach’s cell phone to call 911 and the emergency call was transferred to Teton Interagency Dispatch Center at 1:28 p.m.
Park rangers summoned the contract helicopter that was already working in the vicinity, and used the ship to pinpoint the hikers’ location from the air. Rangers determined that no suitable landing spot was available from which they could stage a mountain-based rescue operation, so they conducted a short-haul mission from the park’s rescue cache at Lupine Meadows on the valley floor.
One ranger with emergency gear was inserted via short-haul into the accident site at 3:30 p.m. Upon arriving, he confirmed that Kalmbach was deceased. A second ranger was inserted with a rescue litter, and the two placed Winiasz into an evacuation suit for a short-haul flight to the Lupine Meadows rescue cache. The helicopter made a second flight at 4:30 p.m. to evacuate Kalmbach. Teton County Coroner Bob Campbell then met the rangers at Lupine Meadows to transport Kalmbach by vehicle to Jackson, Wyoming.
Injured Climber Rescued from Death Canyon
August 26, 2009
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Park rangers used the assistance of a Teton interagency helicopter to rescue a 23-year-old local man from a climbing route in Death Canyon at Grand Teton National Park on Tuesday, August 25. The climber, a resident of Jackson, Wyoming, and his partner were ascending the first pitch on a route called Caveat Emptor when they pulled off several rocks, causing them to fall about 30-40 feet. Although both climbers were wearing helmets at the time of the incident, one received injuries to his face and shoulder and required evacuation by helicopter.
Two off-duty guides from Exum Mountaineering were climbing in the vicinity at the time of the accident and were able to reach the injured man and make an emergency cell phone call to the Teton Interagency Dispatch Center to alert park personnel of the situation. Rangers responded to the scene on foot and by helicopter and provided emergency medical care to the injured climber.
With the assistance of the two Exum guides, rangers lowered the injured climber to a ledge below a route called the Snaz, where he was then airlifted via short-haul to a landing zone near the Death Canyon patrol cabin. A park ambulance then transported the injured man to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson.
Park rangers salute the Exum Mountain guides for their quick response and assistance during this rescue operation. Other climbers – both professional and amateur – are frequently the first persons on the scene of a backcountry accident; the information they provide to responding rangers, and the assistance they offer, are often instrumental in the positive outcome of a rescue effort.
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Park rangers used the assistance of a Teton interagency helicopter to rescue a 23-year-old local man from a climbing route in Death Canyon at Grand Teton National Park on Tuesday, August 25. The climber, a resident of Jackson, Wyoming, and his partner were ascending the first pitch on a route called Caveat Emptor when they pulled off several rocks, causing them to fall about 30-40 feet. Although both climbers were wearing helmets at the time of the incident, one received injuries to his face and shoulder and required evacuation by helicopter.
Two off-duty guides from Exum Mountaineering were climbing in the vicinity at the time of the accident and were able to reach the injured man and make an emergency cell phone call to the Teton Interagency Dispatch Center to alert park personnel of the situation. Rangers responded to the scene on foot and by helicopter and provided emergency medical care to the injured climber.
With the assistance of the two Exum guides, rangers lowered the injured climber to a ledge below a route called the Snaz, where he was then airlifted via short-haul to a landing zone near the Death Canyon patrol cabin. A park ambulance then transported the injured man to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson.
Park rangers salute the Exum Mountain guides for their quick response and assistance during this rescue operation. Other climbers – both professional and amateur – are frequently the first persons on the scene of a backcountry accident; the information they provide to responding rangers, and the assistance they offer, are often instrumental in the positive outcome of a rescue effort.
Injured Climber Evacuated by Helicopter from Teewinot Mountain
July 12, 2009
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An injured climber was evacuated by helicopter from Teewinot Mountain on Saturday afternoon, July 11, in Grand Teton National Park. Sam Russell, 22, of Jackson, Wyoming sustained serious injuries when he slipped on snow and tumbled about 200 feet before landing on a break between two snow patches, while attempting to descend the North West Couloir (elevation 12,000 ft). He was wearing crampons and carrying an ice axe at the time, but was unable to perform a self arrest.
Russell’s climbing party had successfully reached the summit of Teewinot and was on their way down when the accident occurred; all of the climbers had ice axes and crampons, but none were wearing helmets. The group decided to make their decent via the South West Couloir but missed their intended route and ended up on the more technical North West Couloir.
Grand Teton National Park rangers were notified of the accident at around 12:00 p.m. on Saturday, when Russell’s companions placed a call for help from a cell phone. Rangers immediately organized a rescue operation and requested the assistance of an interagency contract helicopter for support in the rescue. The helicopter flew to Lupine Meadows, picked up several rangers, and performed an aerial reconnaissance flight. Rangers were able to remain in contact via cell phone with a member of Russell’s climbing party, which was helpful in pinpointing his location on the mountain.
A suitable helicopter landing zone near the accident site allowed rangers to arrive on scene just before 2 p.m. Rangers provided Russell with emergency medical care before placing him into a rescue litter for aerial evacuation. He was then flown via the short-haul method at 2:30 p.m.—with a ranger accompanying him below the helicopter—directly to the Jenny Lake rescue cache located on the valley floor. A park ambulance transported Russell to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson for further treatment of his injuries.
Park rangers also evacuated Russell’s companions via helicopter after helping them descend to the high west shoulder of Teewinot Mountain.
Rangers remind climbers that dangerous and variable snow conditions persist above 9,000 feet. Backcountry users are advised to stop in or call a visitor center or ranger station on the day of travel to obtain the most current trail, route and snow conditions. Climbers should also note that most climbing accidents involve slips on snow, and most occur on the descent at the end of a long day.
This marks the first major mountain rescue operation in Grand Teton National Park this summer.
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An injured climber was evacuated by helicopter from Teewinot Mountain on Saturday afternoon, July 11, in Grand Teton National Park. Sam Russell, 22, of Jackson, Wyoming sustained serious injuries when he slipped on snow and tumbled about 200 feet before landing on a break between two snow patches, while attempting to descend the North West Couloir (elevation 12,000 ft). He was wearing crampons and carrying an ice axe at the time, but was unable to perform a self arrest.
Russell’s climbing party had successfully reached the summit of Teewinot and was on their way down when the accident occurred; all of the climbers had ice axes and crampons, but none were wearing helmets. The group decided to make their decent via the South West Couloir but missed their intended route and ended up on the more technical North West Couloir.
Grand Teton National Park rangers were notified of the accident at around 12:00 p.m. on Saturday, when Russell’s companions placed a call for help from a cell phone. Rangers immediately organized a rescue operation and requested the assistance of an interagency contract helicopter for support in the rescue. The helicopter flew to Lupine Meadows, picked up several rangers, and performed an aerial reconnaissance flight. Rangers were able to remain in contact via cell phone with a member of Russell’s climbing party, which was helpful in pinpointing his location on the mountain.
A suitable helicopter landing zone near the accident site allowed rangers to arrive on scene just before 2 p.m. Rangers provided Russell with emergency medical care before placing him into a rescue litter for aerial evacuation. He was then flown via the short-haul method at 2:30 p.m.—with a ranger accompanying him below the helicopter—directly to the Jenny Lake rescue cache located on the valley floor. A park ambulance transported Russell to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson for further treatment of his injuries.
Park rangers also evacuated Russell’s companions via helicopter after helping them descend to the high west shoulder of Teewinot Mountain.
Rangers remind climbers that dangerous and variable snow conditions persist above 9,000 feet. Backcountry users are advised to stop in or call a visitor center or ranger station on the day of travel to obtain the most current trail, route and snow conditions. Climbers should also note that most climbing accidents involve slips on snow, and most occur on the descent at the end of a long day.
This marks the first major mountain rescue operation in Grand Teton National Park this summer.
Climbing Fatality near Gilkey Tower in Grand Teton National Park
August 10, 2008
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A 55-year-old man from Helena, Montana took a fatal fall while traversing the ridge between the South Teton and Cloudveil Dome with three companions on Saturday afternoon, August 9. Chris Pazder slipped on snow while crossing the south side of Gilkey Tower (elevation 12,320 ft.) and tumbled about 800 feet over steep rock before landing on a ledge on the north side of Avalanche Canyon. He was carrying an ice axe at the time of the slide, but was unable to self arrest.
Grand Teton National Park rangers were notified of the accident at approximately 1:15 p.m. on Saturday, when Pazder’s companions placed a cell phone call to Teton Interagency Dispatch Center to report the incident. Rangers immediately organized a rescue operation and requested the assistance of an interagency contract helicopter for air support. The helicopter flew to Lupine Meadows, picked up several rangers, and undertook an aerial reconnaissance flight. Pazder was located from the air, and rangers were able to verify that he was deceased.
A ranger who was on routine mountain patrol in Garnet Canyon was diverted from his backcountry route to the accident scene. He reached the three members of Pazder’s party just before 5:00 p.m. and assisted them with the descent to their camp in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. They were able to hike out of Garnet Canyon on Sunday morning.
Because of an incoming thunderstorm and the time of day, rangers decided to wait until Sunday to attempt to recover Pazder. At about 7:00 a.m. Sunday, helicopter operations and the recovery effort resumed.
Rangers began their ground-based recovery operation on Sunday morning by flying six rangers to a landing zone near Lake Taminah, in Avalanche Canyon. The rescue personnel had to ascend 200 feet of technical terrain to the ledge where Pazder came to rest. The recovery operation was completed by early Sunday evening.
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A 55-year-old man from Helena, Montana took a fatal fall while traversing the ridge between the South Teton and Cloudveil Dome with three companions on Saturday afternoon, August 9. Chris Pazder slipped on snow while crossing the south side of Gilkey Tower (elevation 12,320 ft.) and tumbled about 800 feet over steep rock before landing on a ledge on the north side of Avalanche Canyon. He was carrying an ice axe at the time of the slide, but was unable to self arrest.
Grand Teton National Park rangers were notified of the accident at approximately 1:15 p.m. on Saturday, when Pazder’s companions placed a cell phone call to Teton Interagency Dispatch Center to report the incident. Rangers immediately organized a rescue operation and requested the assistance of an interagency contract helicopter for air support. The helicopter flew to Lupine Meadows, picked up several rangers, and undertook an aerial reconnaissance flight. Pazder was located from the air, and rangers were able to verify that he was deceased.
A ranger who was on routine mountain patrol in Garnet Canyon was diverted from his backcountry route to the accident scene. He reached the three members of Pazder’s party just before 5:00 p.m. and assisted them with the descent to their camp in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. They were able to hike out of Garnet Canyon on Sunday morning.
Because of an incoming thunderstorm and the time of day, rangers decided to wait until Sunday to attempt to recover Pazder. At about 7:00 a.m. Sunday, helicopter operations and the recovery effort resumed.
Rangers began their ground-based recovery operation on Sunday morning by flying six rangers to a landing zone near Lake Taminah, in Avalanche Canyon. The rescue personnel had to ascend 200 feet of technical terrain to the ledge where Pazder came to rest. The recovery operation was completed by early Sunday evening.
Injured Climber Rescued from Upper Saddle of Grand Teton
August 8, 2008
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An injured climber was evacuated by helicopter from the Grand Teton on Thursday afternoon, August 7, in Grand Teton National Park. Merry Carny, age 46, of Salt Lake City, Utah sustained multiple broken bones after landing hard during a rappel from a cliff near the Upper Saddle of the Grand Teton. Carny and her husband had successfully reached the summit and were on their way down when the accident occurred; neither climber was wearing a helmet at the time.
The Carnys climbed the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton on Thursday morning and reached the summit at 12:30 p.m. They were descending the standard rappel near the Upper Saddle when Merry was unable to maintain friction on her climbing rope and ultimately slid about 50 feet before coming to an abrupt stop on the slope below the rappel route. She landed on her feet, but fell backward after the abrupt landing. Carny received injuries to her leg, side and back, and was unable to continue climbing. The Carnys used their cell phone to report their situation; however, because of their location on the Grand Teton, the call was received by the Driggs, Idaho sheriff’s office. Teton Interagency Dispatch Center received notice of the accident at 1:30 p.m., and park rangers immediately summoned an interagency contract helicopter to assist with the rescue effort.
Three park rangers were transported by the contract helicopter to the Lower Saddle of the Grand Teton, and one of those rangers was then inserted into the accident site via short-haul. Two additional rangers were flown by helicopter to the Lower Saddle along with necessary rescue equipment, and a second ranger was also inserted by short-haul into the accident site. Carny was given emergency medical care by the rangers and placed into a rescue litter for evacuation. She was then flown at 4:45 p.m.—with a ranger accompanying her—directly to the Jenny Lake rescue cache located on the valley floor. A park ambulance transported her to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson for further treatment of her injuries.
The remaining ranger accompanied Mr. Carny as he continued his descent from the Upper Saddle. Upon reaching the Lower Saddle, he too was flown by helicopter to the rescue cache to expedite his ability to join his wife at the hospital.
This marks the second major search and rescue operation in Grand Teton National Park in the past two days.
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An injured climber was evacuated by helicopter from the Grand Teton on Thursday afternoon, August 7, in Grand Teton National Park. Merry Carny, age 46, of Salt Lake City, Utah sustained multiple broken bones after landing hard during a rappel from a cliff near the Upper Saddle of the Grand Teton. Carny and her husband had successfully reached the summit and were on their way down when the accident occurred; neither climber was wearing a helmet at the time.
The Carnys climbed the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton on Thursday morning and reached the summit at 12:30 p.m. They were descending the standard rappel near the Upper Saddle when Merry was unable to maintain friction on her climbing rope and ultimately slid about 50 feet before coming to an abrupt stop on the slope below the rappel route. She landed on her feet, but fell backward after the abrupt landing. Carny received injuries to her leg, side and back, and was unable to continue climbing. The Carnys used their cell phone to report their situation; however, because of their location on the Grand Teton, the call was received by the Driggs, Idaho sheriff’s office. Teton Interagency Dispatch Center received notice of the accident at 1:30 p.m., and park rangers immediately summoned an interagency contract helicopter to assist with the rescue effort.
Three park rangers were transported by the contract helicopter to the Lower Saddle of the Grand Teton, and one of those rangers was then inserted into the accident site via short-haul. Two additional rangers were flown by helicopter to the Lower Saddle along with necessary rescue equipment, and a second ranger was also inserted by short-haul into the accident site. Carny was given emergency medical care by the rangers and placed into a rescue litter for evacuation. She was then flown at 4:45 p.m.—with a ranger accompanying her—directly to the Jenny Lake rescue cache located on the valley floor. A park ambulance transported her to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson for further treatment of her injuries.
The remaining ranger accompanied Mr. Carny as he continued his descent from the Upper Saddle. Upon reaching the Lower Saddle, he too was flown by helicopter to the rescue cache to expedite his ability to join his wife at the hospital.
This marks the second major search and rescue operation in Grand Teton National Park in the past two days.
Investigation Continues on the Grand Teton Climbing Fatality
July 21, 2008
08-42
Grand Teton National Park rangers continue to investigate the death of longtime Exum Mountain Guides employee George Gardner, age 58, that occurred on Saturday, July 19. Fellow guides, who were with Gardner before the accident that took his life, have provided rangers with extensive information about the circumstances leading up to his untimely death.
Gardner and several other Exum guides had taken a group of clients, including youths from Wilderness Ventures, to the Lower Saddle on Saturday with the intention of climbing the Grand Teton the following day. After the group had eaten dinner and settled into their Lower Saddle camp for the evening, Gardner departed around 5 p.m. to free solo climb the Lower Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton, a climb rated 5.7 on the Yosemite Decimal System. According to his colleagues, Gardner planned to climb the route to Wall Street and then return back to Lower Saddle base camp. It is not unusual for professional guides—either in pairs or solo—to go out for additional climbing on their own, once their clients have settled in for the night.
Several guides were concerned when Gardner had not returned by dark; however, the guides noticed headlamps coming down from the Upper Saddle and they figured it was Gardner, perhaps assisting a mountaineering party in their late-hour descent. When the guides awoke at 3 a.m. to prepare for the day’s excursion, they discovered that Gardner was missing. Out of concern, they notified Exum Mountain Guides President Jack Turner, who contacted Teton Interagency Dispatch Center (TIDC) with news of the missing guide. After the call, park rangers immediately began coordinating a search and rescue response, and requested for an interagency contract helicopter to arrive at first light.
At the Lower Saddle, several Exum guides began a hasty search for Gardner, with three guides climbing the Lower Exum Ridge route and two guides ascending the classic route to the Upper Exum Ridge via Wall Street. One of the guides ascending towards Wall Street spotted Gardner’s body around 6 a.m. from an area near the Eye of the Needle. After alerting the party that was ascending the Lower Exum Ridge, two of the guides from the Lower Exum Ridge party climbed to Gardner’s location and confirmed that he was deceased. Park rangers and TIDC were notified of the fatality, prompting a switch to a recovery and investigation operation. At approximately 6:30 a.m., park rangers were flown by helicopter with the intention of landing at the Lower Saddle. They were diverted to a landing spot on Teepee Glacier due to moderate and high wind conditions; a local storm system with lightning temporarily shut down air operations. After the storm passed, the helicopter delivered additional rangers involved with the recovery and investigation effort to the Lower Saddle. Gardner’s body was flown from the accident site on the mountain via short haul and delivered to his family and a contingent of fellow climbing guides at the park’s Lupine Meadows rescue cache at 12:30 p.m. Gardner’s body was then transferred to the Teton County Coroner’s office in Jackson, Wyoming.
Park rangers are further investigating the accident, though they acknowledge that the exact cause may never be known for certain. Rangers speculate that Gardner may have fallen from one of the upper pitches of the Lower Exum Ridge route. They also note that there was a substantial (and atypical) wind gust—of about 60 mph—at approximately 6 p.m. the day of the accident that may have been a factor in Gardner’s fall. Whatever the cause of this accident, park rangers and Exum guides both agree that Gardner was climbing well within the realm of his capabilities, and doing what he was comfortable with and what he loved.
Superintendent Mary Gibson Scott expressed heartfelt condolences on behalf of all park staff. “Park employees, local residents and the climbing community are stunned by this tragedy,” she said. “George was not only a respected guide, but also a wonderful mentor to other climbers. Our hearts go out to his family.”
A resident of Ridgeway, Colorado, Gardner had been an Exum guide for 17 years and a climbing guide for 28 years. His vast mountaineering experience included expeditions on the southwest face of Kanchenjunga and the west face of Hyani Potosi in Bolivia’s Cordillera Real; ski ascents in the Alps and in Colorado; and extensive climbing in North America and the Himalayas. He was the program director for Sterling College’s “Semester in the Himalayas” as well as an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.
08-42
Grand Teton National Park rangers continue to investigate the death of longtime Exum Mountain Guides employee George Gardner, age 58, that occurred on Saturday, July 19. Fellow guides, who were with Gardner before the accident that took his life, have provided rangers with extensive information about the circumstances leading up to his untimely death.
Gardner and several other Exum guides had taken a group of clients, including youths from Wilderness Ventures, to the Lower Saddle on Saturday with the intention of climbing the Grand Teton the following day. After the group had eaten dinner and settled into their Lower Saddle camp for the evening, Gardner departed around 5 p.m. to free solo climb the Lower Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton, a climb rated 5.7 on the Yosemite Decimal System. According to his colleagues, Gardner planned to climb the route to Wall Street and then return back to Lower Saddle base camp. It is not unusual for professional guides—either in pairs or solo—to go out for additional climbing on their own, once their clients have settled in for the night.
Several guides were concerned when Gardner had not returned by dark; however, the guides noticed headlamps coming down from the Upper Saddle and they figured it was Gardner, perhaps assisting a mountaineering party in their late-hour descent. When the guides awoke at 3 a.m. to prepare for the day’s excursion, they discovered that Gardner was missing. Out of concern, they notified Exum Mountain Guides President Jack Turner, who contacted Teton Interagency Dispatch Center (TIDC) with news of the missing guide. After the call, park rangers immediately began coordinating a search and rescue response, and requested for an interagency contract helicopter to arrive at first light.
At the Lower Saddle, several Exum guides began a hasty search for Gardner, with three guides climbing the Lower Exum Ridge route and two guides ascending the classic route to the Upper Exum Ridge via Wall Street. One of the guides ascending towards Wall Street spotted Gardner’s body around 6 a.m. from an area near the Eye of the Needle. After alerting the party that was ascending the Lower Exum Ridge, two of the guides from the Lower Exum Ridge party climbed to Gardner’s location and confirmed that he was deceased. Park rangers and TIDC were notified of the fatality, prompting a switch to a recovery and investigation operation. At approximately 6:30 a.m., park rangers were flown by helicopter with the intention of landing at the Lower Saddle. They were diverted to a landing spot on Teepee Glacier due to moderate and high wind conditions; a local storm system with lightning temporarily shut down air operations. After the storm passed, the helicopter delivered additional rangers involved with the recovery and investigation effort to the Lower Saddle. Gardner’s body was flown from the accident site on the mountain via short haul and delivered to his family and a contingent of fellow climbing guides at the park’s Lupine Meadows rescue cache at 12:30 p.m. Gardner’s body was then transferred to the Teton County Coroner’s office in Jackson, Wyoming.
Park rangers are further investigating the accident, though they acknowledge that the exact cause may never be known for certain. Rangers speculate that Gardner may have fallen from one of the upper pitches of the Lower Exum Ridge route. They also note that there was a substantial (and atypical) wind gust—of about 60 mph—at approximately 6 p.m. the day of the accident that may have been a factor in Gardner’s fall. Whatever the cause of this accident, park rangers and Exum guides both agree that Gardner was climbing well within the realm of his capabilities, and doing what he was comfortable with and what he loved.
Superintendent Mary Gibson Scott expressed heartfelt condolences on behalf of all park staff. “Park employees, local residents and the climbing community are stunned by this tragedy,” she said. “George was not only a respected guide, but also a wonderful mentor to other climbers. Our hearts go out to his family.”
A resident of Ridgeway, Colorado, Gardner had been an Exum guide for 17 years and a climbing guide for 28 years. His vast mountaineering experience included expeditions on the southwest face of Kanchenjunga and the west face of Hyani Potosi in Bolivia’s Cordillera Real; ski ascents in the Alps and in Colorado; and extensive climbing in North America and the Himalayas. He was the program director for Sterling College’s “Semester in the Himalayas” as well as an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.
Climbing Guide Takes Fatal Fall on Grand Teton
July 20, 2008
08-41
Grand Teton National Park Superintendent Mary Gibson Scott is saddened to announce that climbing guide George Gardner, age 58, from Ridgeway, CO, died Saturday evening, July 19, from traumatic injuries suffered in a fall while solo climbing a route on the Grand Teton. Gardner was not guiding any clients at the time of the fall.
Park rangers are investigating the accident and will issue more information as it becomes available.
08-41
Grand Teton National Park Superintendent Mary Gibson Scott is saddened to announce that climbing guide George Gardner, age 58, from Ridgeway, CO, died Saturday evening, July 19, from traumatic injuries suffered in a fall while solo climbing a route on the Grand Teton. Gardner was not guiding any clients at the time of the fall.
Park rangers are investigating the accident and will issue more information as it becomes available.
Injured Climber Flown from Middle Teton on July Fourth
July 6, 2008
08-35
Grand Teton National Park rangers and an interagency contract helicopter evacuated an injured climber from the Middle Teton on Friday, July 4, at 5:45 p.m. 24-year-old Tom Wilkinson, from Chapel Hill, North Carolina, tumbled approximately 150 feet and suffered a severe ankle injury while descending a snowfield on the Middle Teton. He was wearing crampons and a helmet at the time of the fall; he was also carrying an ice axe.
Wilkinson and his climbing partner, Christopher Leath, also 24 years old, of Wilson, Wyoming, were descending the South Couloir route—a rarely climbed couloir, between the Southwest and Ellingwood couloirs—when Wilkinson fell. He tumbled over several rockbands, injured his ankle when he impacted a rock, and came to a stop above a cliff (elevation 11,300 ft.). Leath placed an emergency cell phone call, which was transferred to park rangers at 12:30 p.m. Rangers began coordinating a rescue operation and requested the assistance of an interagency contract helicopter. Because the two climbers were unable to describe their exact position on the mountain, an initial reconnaissance flight was required to locate them. During this flight, rangers and the pilot determined that winds were too strong to allow for the insertion of rescue personnel to the climbers’ location. Instead, six rangers and a helitack crew member were flown to a landing zone in the Garnet Canyon Meadows, and they approached the party on foot.
Two rangers reached the climbers at 3:45 p.m., and another helicopter flight was launched to determine if weather conditions had stabilized enough so that the pilot could perform a short-haul evacuation of Wilkinson. When there is no suitable spot to land a helicopter, the short-haul method is used to place rescue personnel, who are suspended below the helicopter by a 100-150-foot rope, into a location near the patient; the injured person is then secured into either an evacuation suit or a rescue litter to be airlifted for a short flight to another landing spot where the ship can safely touch down. In this case, rangers provided medical care to Wilkinson, placed him in an evacuation suit, and flew him, along with an attending ranger, below the helicopter to Lupine Meadows. A waiting park ambulance transported Wilkinson to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson for further medical care.
Climbers are reminded that dangerous and variable snow conditions persist above 9,000 feet. Backcountry users are advised to stop in or call a visitor center or ranger station on the day of travel to obtain the most current trail, route and snow conditions. Climbers should also note that most climbing accidents involve slips on snow, and most occur on the descent at the end of a long day.
08-35
Grand Teton National Park rangers and an interagency contract helicopter evacuated an injured climber from the Middle Teton on Friday, July 4, at 5:45 p.m. 24-year-old Tom Wilkinson, from Chapel Hill, North Carolina, tumbled approximately 150 feet and suffered a severe ankle injury while descending a snowfield on the Middle Teton. He was wearing crampons and a helmet at the time of the fall; he was also carrying an ice axe.
Wilkinson and his climbing partner, Christopher Leath, also 24 years old, of Wilson, Wyoming, were descending the South Couloir route—a rarely climbed couloir, between the Southwest and Ellingwood couloirs—when Wilkinson fell. He tumbled over several rockbands, injured his ankle when he impacted a rock, and came to a stop above a cliff (elevation 11,300 ft.). Leath placed an emergency cell phone call, which was transferred to park rangers at 12:30 p.m. Rangers began coordinating a rescue operation and requested the assistance of an interagency contract helicopter. Because the two climbers were unable to describe their exact position on the mountain, an initial reconnaissance flight was required to locate them. During this flight, rangers and the pilot determined that winds were too strong to allow for the insertion of rescue personnel to the climbers’ location. Instead, six rangers and a helitack crew member were flown to a landing zone in the Garnet Canyon Meadows, and they approached the party on foot.
Two rangers reached the climbers at 3:45 p.m., and another helicopter flight was launched to determine if weather conditions had stabilized enough so that the pilot could perform a short-haul evacuation of Wilkinson. When there is no suitable spot to land a helicopter, the short-haul method is used to place rescue personnel, who are suspended below the helicopter by a 100-150-foot rope, into a location near the patient; the injured person is then secured into either an evacuation suit or a rescue litter to be airlifted for a short flight to another landing spot where the ship can safely touch down. In this case, rangers provided medical care to Wilkinson, placed him in an evacuation suit, and flew him, along with an attending ranger, below the helicopter to Lupine Meadows. A waiting park ambulance transported Wilkinson to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson for further medical care.
Climbers are reminded that dangerous and variable snow conditions persist above 9,000 feet. Backcountry users are advised to stop in or call a visitor center or ranger station on the day of travel to obtain the most current trail, route and snow conditions. Climbers should also note that most climbing accidents involve slips on snow, and most occur on the descent at the end of a long day.
Injured Climber Evacuated by Helicopter from Teewinot Mountain
June 24, 2008
08-32
Grand Teton National Park rangers and an interagency contract helicopter evacuated an injured 16-year-old girl from Teewinot Mountain on Tuesday, June 24, at 2:15 p.m. The young woman, from New Mexico and visiting Jackson Hole with her family, slipped on snow and tumbled about 100 meters near the Worshipper and the Idol (elevation 11,000 ft.) while descending the east face of Teewinot with two other climbers. She suffered injuries to her hip, elbow and ankle during the fall as well as lacerations on her forehead and hands. She was wearing crampons and a helmet at the time of the fall; she was also carrying an ice axe.
An Exum guide, who was taking a client up the mountain, first made contact with the injured girl at approximately 10:15 a.m. The guide stabilized her, provided emergency medical assistance, and contacted park rangers for assistance. Due to the nature of the injuries, the location of the accident, the difficult terrain, and the prolonged time an evacuation by foot would take, rangers made the decision to evacuate the injured climber by helicopter.
Two park rangers were flown from Lupine Meadows and inserted by the short-haul method to the injured party’s location on Teewinot; a third ranger was then inserted with medical equipment and a rescue litter. When there is no suitable spot to land a helicopter, the short-haul method is used to place rescue personnel, who are suspended below the helicopter by a rope, into a location near the patient; the injured person is then secured into either an evacuation suit or a rescue litter to be airlifted for a short flight to another landing spot where the ship can safely touch down. In this case, rangers provided medical care to the patient and placed her into a rescue litter. She was then flown in tandem with an attending ranger to the Lupine Meadows Rescue Cache on the valley floor at 2:15 p.m., where a waiting park ambulance transported her to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson for further medical care.
This marks the first major search and rescue operation in Grand Teton National Park this summer.
08-32
Grand Teton National Park rangers and an interagency contract helicopter evacuated an injured 16-year-old girl from Teewinot Mountain on Tuesday, June 24, at 2:15 p.m. The young woman, from New Mexico and visiting Jackson Hole with her family, slipped on snow and tumbled about 100 meters near the Worshipper and the Idol (elevation 11,000 ft.) while descending the east face of Teewinot with two other climbers. She suffered injuries to her hip, elbow and ankle during the fall as well as lacerations on her forehead and hands. She was wearing crampons and a helmet at the time of the fall; she was also carrying an ice axe.
An Exum guide, who was taking a client up the mountain, first made contact with the injured girl at approximately 10:15 a.m. The guide stabilized her, provided emergency medical assistance, and contacted park rangers for assistance. Due to the nature of the injuries, the location of the accident, the difficult terrain, and the prolonged time an evacuation by foot would take, rangers made the decision to evacuate the injured climber by helicopter.
Two park rangers were flown from Lupine Meadows and inserted by the short-haul method to the injured party’s location on Teewinot; a third ranger was then inserted with medical equipment and a rescue litter. When there is no suitable spot to land a helicopter, the short-haul method is used to place rescue personnel, who are suspended below the helicopter by a rope, into a location near the patient; the injured person is then secured into either an evacuation suit or a rescue litter to be airlifted for a short flight to another landing spot where the ship can safely touch down. In this case, rangers provided medical care to the patient and placed her into a rescue litter. She was then flown in tandem with an attending ranger to the Lupine Meadows Rescue Cache on the valley floor at 2:15 p.m., where a waiting park ambulance transported her to St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson for further medical care.
This marks the first major search and rescue operation in Grand Teton National Park this summer.
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